No. 307 in copper No. 705 in copper
1. Clean the metal sheets with denatured alcohol
and wipe them dry before installation (steel only). The prepainted
white, chrome, copper plated, brass plated and stainless steel all
have a PVC film that should be removed before or during installation.
Heavy leather gloves should be worn when handling and installing
metal. The edges are very sharp.
2. To begin: Nail furring strips to the ceiling
around the perimeter of the room 1-1/2" from the walls, using
resin-coated nails. Locate the center of the ceiling and bisect
it by snapping a chalk line at right angles to the ceiling beams.
This insures that the ceiling panels will be nailed into the beams.
Working out from this line, snap chalk lines at 24" intervals.
Place the edge of a furring strip along each line and nail it to
the ceiling. Repeat the process, nailing new furring strips at 12"
intervals. Level the ceiling, raising low areas by inserting shims
between the furring strips and the ceiling or install 3/8"
3. Install Plywood: As an alternative, you can
install 3/8" plywood or comparable material across the entire
ceiling. Tin ceiling panels are held in place with special cone
head finish nails, which have to be driven into wood; drywall or
plaster will not do.
4. Find the ceiling's center: Tin panels are installed
starting from the center and working out. To find center, stretch
a chalk line between opposite corners of the ceiling and snap a
line on the plywood or furring strips. Do the same with the other
corners. The lines cross at the center of the ceiling. Now snap
a line through this center point parallel with the room's longest
wall. This is the baseline for the length of the room. Finish by
snapping another line through the center point that is 90 degrees
to the first baseline.
5. Plan the layout: The ideal layout should be
"balanced" so that the panels that meet one wall are the
same size as the panels touching the opposite wall. To find where
the center piece will land, work out how many panels will fit along
the baselines. Be sure to account for the overlap, typically 3/8".
Then adjust the center panel's position to create the desirable
balance along the ceiling perimeter.
6. Orient the edges: Because the panels overlap,
most will have exposed edges. Installing the panels so the edges
face away from a room's main doorway will make them less noticeable.
7. Close the seams: Tighten up any open seams
by tapping against the overlapping edge with a hammer and soft pine
8. Coat the metal with any color oil based paint:
Unfinished steel will rust if it is not protected from humidity.
For best results use clear gloss enamel or aluminum paint by Rustoleum.
The sheets have small dimples along the edges called beads. You
line up the sheets by overlapping these beads (like a ball and socket).
Nail the sheets on the bead every 6". The exception to this
is when you are joining sheets; use a flat head nail to one side
of the bead to allow the overlapping sheet to be nailed on the bead.
Nail down the center length of the sheet every 12" before nailing
Any cutting required can be done with metal shears.